In this tutorial, I'm gonna walk you through how to check the fuel pump's performance by measuring fuel pressure on the 2003–2007 2.4L Honda Accord.
These Accords don't come with a handy Schrader valve on the fuel rail, so you'll need a fuel pressure gauge kit with a quick disconnect T-fitting to tap into the fuel line between the rail and the feed hose.
I'll cover what tools you need, where to connect the gauge, how to safely get a reading, and how to interpret the results so you'll know if your pump is healthy or falling short.
Whether your 2.4L Accord refuses to start or just feels sluggish and starved for power, this test will help you pinpoint if low or no fuel pressure is behind the problem.
We'll also go over a quick Starting Fluid check —no special tools required— to help confirm if a fuel delivery issue is the root cause of the no-start.
Contents of this tutorial:
IMPORTANT: Gasoline is extremely flammable! Take all necessary safety precautions, be alert, be careful. Starting fluid and gasoline can ignite very easily.
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 2.4L Honda Accord: 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007.
FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT WIRING DIAGRAM:
ENGINE NO-START DIAGNOSTICS:
Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump
On the 2.4L Accord, a failing fuel pump usually shows up in one of two ways:
- The pump quits completely: The starter spins the engine, but not a drop of fuel makes it to the injectors, so the engine never fires up.
- The pump still runs —but can't keep up: The engine may start and idle, but stumbles or bogs when you press the accelerator or try to drive away.
If your 2.4L Honda Accord starts and runs, but the pump is weak and failing, you'll see one or more of the following issues:
- Starts, then quickly stalls: Fires up for a few seconds, then dies since fuel pressure is lower than the indicated spec.
- Stalls when put under load: Idles okay, but sputters and cuts out when you put it in gear or give it gas.
- Sluggish acceleration: Feels flat when trying to speed up, especially on hills or while merging.
- Popping sounds (backfires) from the intake: A lean mixture from low fuel delivery can cause popping sounds under the hood especially when you stick it in Drive and step on the gas pedal.
- Lean mixture codes: If the check engine light is on with codes like P0171, a weak pump could be why the mixture is running lean.
NOTE: If fuel pressure checks out within spec and the engine still refuses to start, the problem lies elsewhere —this other guide will help you track it down:
If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge yet, don't worry —the next section will show you affordable ways to get one without breaking the bank...
Where To Buy A Fuel Pressure Gauge
NOTE: The 2003–2007 2.4L Honda Accord does not have a fuel pressure test port (Schrader valve) on the fuel rail.
That means you'll need a fuel pressure test kit that comes with a 5/16-inch hairpin-style T-fitting so you can connect the gauge inline between the fuel feed line and the rail.
The kits I've linked below won't break the bank and include the correct quick-connect fittings for this Accord's returnless fuel system:
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Buying through these links helps support this site at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support —it really means a lot!
TEST 1: Checking Fuel Pressure With A Gauge
As mentioned earlier, these Accords don't have a Schrader valve for an easy gauge connection, so you'll be teeing into the fuel line at the quick-connect fitting on the fuel injector rail. Once the T-fitting adapter is installed, the gauge will show you live fuel pressure as soon as the pump runs.
On the 2003–2007 2.4L Honda Accord (non-SULEV), normal fuel pressure should be 48–55 PSI. This specification is the same whether you're checking with the key on and engine off (KOEO) or with the engine running (KOER).
If the gauge reading is much lower than that —or shows 0 PSI— there's a fuel delivery problem causing the engine to either not start or causing engine performance problems (pointing to a bad fuel pump).
SAFETY FIRST: Work in a well-ventilated area, keep flames and sparks far away, wear eye protection, and have a fire extinguisher handy.
Alright, here's how to check fuel pressure on your Accord, step by step:
- 1
Relieve the fuel pressure in the system.
Follow the procedure here: Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. This will keep fuel from spraying when you disconnect the line. - 2
Hook up your fuel pressure gauge.
Since this Accord doesn't have a Schrader valve, you'll disconnect the quick-connect fitting at the fuel rail and install your hairpin-style T-fitting inline between the fuel supply hose and the fuel injector rail.
Make sure you follow your test kit's instructions and confirm the connection is fully seated before moving on. - 3
Cycle the ignition key ON and OFF several times —without cranking the engine.
This primes the system and builds pressure. Keep an eye out for leaks.
If everything stays dry, continue. If you spot or smell fuel, stop and fix the leak before going any further.
Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Test: Engine does not start:
- 4
Have your helper crank the engine briefly, then release the key.
NOTE: After cranking, the key should remain in the RUN position. Avoid turning the key all the way to OFF, or you'll have to repeat the step. - 5
The gauge should read about 48–55 PSI (non-SULEV models).
Key On Engine Running (KOER) Test: Engine starts and stays running
- 4
Have your helper start the engine and let it idle.
- 5
The gauge should report a steady pressure between 48–55 PSI.
Let's break down what your fuel pressure reading actually means:
CASE 1: The gauge reads 0 PSI. This means no fuel is reaching the injectors —which explains the no-start.
Before condemning the fuel pump, we need to confirm the pump is getting power while cranking. You don't need to drop the fuel tank on these Accords. Simply open the trunk and remove the round access cover on top of the fuel tank. This will expose the fuel pump module connector.
These are the general steps:
- Disconnect the fuel pump assembly connector and locate the terminal for the yellow with green stripe (YEL/GRN) wire. With a multimeter set to DC Volts, check for 10–12 Volts at this terminal while a helper cranks the engine.
- If the YEL/GRN wire is delivering 10 to 12 Volts during cranking —and the fuel pressure gauge still reads 0 PSI— the fuel pump is faulty and should be replaced.
- If there's no voltage at the YEL/GRN wire, you'll need to troubleshoot the fuel pump power circuit, including the fuse, relay, and wiring, before replacing the pump.
CASE 2: Fuel pressure is lower than the spec. This means the pump is delivering some fuel, but not enough to meet the engine's needs. On the 2003–2007 2.4L Honda Accord (non-SULEV), normal pressure is 48–55 PSI —anything consistently below this range points to a supply problem.
Low fuel pressure can be caused by:
- A weak or worn-out fuel pump
- A clogged fuel filter (built into the pump module on these Accords)
- A failing in-tank pressure regulator (also part of the pump module)
Replace the fuel pump assembly which includes both the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator.
CASE 3: Fuel pressure is within spec. That's good news —the pump and in-tank regulator are doing their job.
If the engine still refuses to start, something else is causing the problem. At least you can now cross the fuel system off the list. To keep troubleshooting, check out this step-by-step guide:
TEST 2: Starting Fluid Test
When chasing down a no-start condition on the 2.4L Accord, the starting fluid test is a quick way to find out if lack of fuel is the culprit.
This isn't the most precise way to troubleshoot a bad bad pump, but it will immediately tell you if the engine isn't firing up because it's not getting fuel. If it runs briefly on starting fluid, you'll know to keep digging into the fuel delivery side of things.
I've used this simple test countless times in the field to narrow down no-starts in just a few minutes. Just remember one important point: before spraying starting fluid, confirm that all four cylinders have spark. If there's no spark, this test won't give you any meaningful result.
Here's how to run the starting fluid test on your Accord:
- 1
Loosen the intake duct at the throttle body. You don't need to pull it off completely —just loosen the clamp enough so you can lift it slightly and spray fluid into the throttle body.
- 2
Manually open the throttle plate and give a solid spray of starting fluid directly into the intake.
- 3
Reattach the intake duct immediately after spraying. No need to fully tighten the clamp yet.
IMPORTANT: Always reconnect the duct before cranking —this is a safety step in case of a backfire through the intake. - 4
Have your helper crank the engine while you watch and listen closely.
- 5
Two possible outcomes:
1.) The engine fires up for a second or two, then stalls.
2.) The engine just cranks and never catches.
Here's what each result means:
CASE 1: It starts, then shuts off. This means the engine has spark but isn't getting fuel —it briefly ran on the starting fluid you sprayed in. Most of the time, this points to a bad or non-functioning fuel pump, but I still recommend confirming with a proper pressure test: TEST 1: Checking Fuel Pressure With A Gauge.
CASE 2: It doesn't start at all. If it won't even fire with starting fluid —and you've confirmed all four ignition coils are sparking— then the problem isn't fuel-related. Even so, if you're unsure, run a fuel pressure test to be certain: TEST 1: Checking Fuel Pressure With A Gauge.
Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
Before installing the hairpin-style T-fitting between the fuel supply line and the fuel injector rail, you'll want to safely relieve the pressure in the system. This will keep fuel from spraying when you disconnect the quick-connect fitting.
Here's the procedure for the 2003–2007 2.4L Honda Accord:
- Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio and navigation system (if equipped) if you plan on disconnecting the battery negative (-) cable from the battery.
- Remove the left kick panel and remove the PGM-FI main relay 2 (fuel pump relay) from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- Start the engine and let it idle until it stalls.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Remove the quick-connect fitting cover that protects the fuel line connection to the fuel injector rail inlet pipe.
- Inspect the quick-connect fitting for dirt or grime; clean it if necessary.
- Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting to absorb any fuel that may leak out.
- Disconnect the quick-connect fitting by:
- Holding the connector firmly with one hand.
- Using your other hand to squeeze the retainer tabs and release them from the locking tabs.
- Pulling the fuel line straight off the fitting once it's released.
- Once you've installed your fuel pressure test adapter and have reconnected the fuel supply line, install the PGM-FI Main Relay 2.
More 2.4L Honda Accord Tutorials
You can find a complete list of tutorials for your 2.4L Honda Accord equipped car here:
Here's a small sample of the tutorials you'll find in the index:
- How To Test The TPS With A Multimeter (2003-2006 2.4L Honda Accord).
- How To Test The Fuel Injectors (2003-2007 2.4L Honda Accord).
- How To Test The Ignition Coils (2003-2006 2.4L Honda Accord).
- How To Test The MAP Sensor (2003-2007 2.4L Honda Accord).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!
